Several years ago we had a rare privilege. We spent a month in precarious Eastern Europe and focused on Ukraine. Our journey also included Slovakia, Poland, and Hungary – each in a similar shaky political boat. We truly had no idea what to expect from countries that had recently gained independence from their oppressor, but it was important to see them for ourselves and form our own opinions.
It’s been three years since the Russian invasion of Ukraine, yet a lasting peace in the near term seems unlikely. Countries from both sides of the Atlantic express a desire to end the hostilities, but differing agendas, economic considerations, and political gamesmanship have stalled the process. Sadly, what’s missing from this lopsided equation is a recognition of what this horrific war is doing to the people and the country.
We aren’t strangers to traveling in countries with their political lives in the balance. The time we spent in Ukraine was a pivotal moment in our education of how the world works outside of the US. It opened our eyes to the centuries of turmoil these countries have faced, and unfortunately, will continue to endure.
The Ukrainians we met were welcoming, the city was lovely, and we came away so deeply moved by the people. The following articles were our observations when we visited, and are a reminder and show of support; Then, as now, we stand with Ukraine.
Wishing you Peace,
James & Terri
It All Started with Chicken Kyiv
My first encounter with Ukrainian cuisine was at a Howard Johnson’s restaurant in Chicago – of all places! When I turned 15 my family relocated to the “Windy City,” and I started an after-school job as a waitress at HoJo’s. One of the employment perks was permission to try any dish on the menu, so I decided to sample unfamiliar foods. That’s when I discovered Chicken Kyiv (or Kiev as it was spelled then). Now, I know that HoJo’s is no paragon of authentic, international cuisine, but the breaded, cheese-oozing delicacy I had that day was delicious … and the memory stuck with me! I knew that someday I had to see this place called “Kyiv.” … read more
Strolling Kyiv: Gray Skies Smiling at Me
We’ve found that one of the best times to visit Europe is in the Fall. Cool, erratic weather and persistent rain convince many visitors to stay home … but not us. With the right attitude and good rain gear, even gloomy skies and unpredictable downpours can’t wash the color and fun out of a trip to Kyiv.
For most tourists, their best color memory will be the city’s beautiful churches. Kyivites are serious about religion, but that doesn’t mean their churches are conservative, somber affairs. From deep, rich hues to delicate pastels, color is the rule rather than the exception and these iconic cathedrals are a veritable religious rainbow brightening the cityscape. … read more
“Caviar? Caviar? Gude deescount price. Luke! Luke!”
This is the sound you’ll hear if you ping the tourist radar just inside the door of the Besarabsky Market in central Kyiv. And believe me, to the vendors inside, you’ll show up on their radar like a Boeing 747. I gave up all hope of not looking like a tourist when I heard their call, and I was only three steps inside the door … read more
Rockin’ the Rhinos Since 1903: Kyiv’s Chimera House
Whether by design or default, our homes reflect a good deal about our personalities. But what does a 6-story house covered with rhinos, elephants, frogs, catfish, lizards, stags, mermaids, and a snake hanging down like a scaly drain pipe say about the owner? …read more
Kyiv: Where the Wild Things Are
High above Kyiv, on land that once defended the ancient city, the wild things roam. They cling to walls, perch on pillows, and pose as fountains. They exist for one reason alone … to delight! With stunning views over the Dnipro River Valley, Landscape Alley (Peysazhna Alley) is home to whimsical creatures that enthrall locals and visitors, young and old alike … read more
Photo Credits: 1. Marjan Blan 9. Xsandriel 11. Yurii Khomitskyi
GALLIVANCE 
We stand with Ukraine too. We’ve not been there yet so really appreciate your memories and insights.
Peggy, when we visited the East/West feel of the city was so interesting and different for us, and we really enjoyed it. However, I’m sure that it will never be the same, which for any city is truly sad. I only hope that all the major players come to their senses soon, and do what they can to stop the senseless destruction and bloodshed. ~James
It’s tragic, isn’t it? Never mind the posturing and egos of the politicians- what about the man in the street? Or what’s left of their streets.
I agree Jo. We’ve looked online to see how the city has fared and it’s mostly bombed out buildings that we don’t recognize. However, we did see a photo of Independence Square stacked with rubble from bombings. I’m sure the city cleans up as best it can, but I can’t imagine living with the daily reminder of war on your doorstep. ~James
You are correct that travel does help us feel a connection. We were fortunate to visit Odessa once, and every time it is mentioned, it triggers memories.
I am so disappointed in some U.S. politicians now but hope that what is going on will strengthen the connections between European countries that found it convenient to rely on the U.S. umbrella even while feeling their protected social systems were superior. Perhaps all will eventually be stronger – or perhaps I am grasping at straws.
Thanks Ray. I agree with your point. I think now, and have always thought, that any crucial issues in Europe must involve all the major stakeholders, which is what the EU as an organization is all about. And a negotiated peace in Ukraine fits under this umbrella. I suspect that the recent political changes, on both sides of the Atlantic, will increase the urgency for coming to the table. In the meantime, our hearts go out to the everyday Ukrainians slogging through this miserable war day after day. ~James
You wrote some awesome posts about your visits to Ukraine. Thanks for sharing them again. I was raised on borscht and varenyky and your pictures made me hungry! Let’s hope and pray this conflict will be soon resolved. Although I fear it may get worse before it gets better.
Borscht and varenyky on the Alberta plains. I’d love to hear the story behind that food choice.
As for the war, I’m afraid that the Russians are driving the train on this one, and until Putin decides it’s time to stop, the war will go on. And don’t get started on America’s role in the peace process. It would take a while for me to run out of adjectives, and none of them good. ~James
I agree on that! As for the food of my childhood, many of the folks who settled the Canadian prairies came from Eastern Europe. My great-grandparents were German but had been living in south Russia, (the part that is now Ukraine near Odessa). Just before the revolution they emigrated to Canada (in 1911). Hence the borscht and varenyky!!
Thanks for the details Darlene. No wonder you enjoy travel. You have a dash of all sorts of nationalities blended into your DNA. ~James
We stand with Ukraine too. I can’t even begin to discuss my disgust with the US and their policies and actions toward Ukraine, as well as toward my own country, Canada. Before the war, Canada had the second largest population of Ukrainians in the world. Now I believe it is Poland. So growing up, I learned a lot about the country and especially the food. Richard is from Poland and although they have different names, a lot of the food is the same, so we continue to have it.
I have yet to visit Ukraine and I hope I will get the chance someday. Glad to see your pictures, hope it returns to that state soon. Maggie
Maggie, there’s lots of disgust to go around I’m afraid, and the US is at the top of the list. Our policies on many things these days defy belief, and this particularly applies to the war in Ukraine and what appears to be our new friendly relationship with Russia. Unbelievable!
On a happier note, we’ve traveled quite a bit in Eastern Europe and you’re right, the region’s good, hearty foods know no borders. We fell in love with ajvar (red pepper/eggplant dip), and still eat it today. I don’t know if you’ve have this, but the authentic version you get in that part of the world is made with smoked red peppers … yum. ~James
I don’t know Alvaro, but I’ll ask Richard. We’re going in Poland in a month so I’ll look for it there.
Maggie, this may look like a shameless plug for another post, but it really is me trying to spread the good-food word. Check it out:
We here in the Alexander house stand with Ukraine also. I can’t imagine not standing with these people. Thanks for giving your insights into what was a wonderful country.
Suzanne, I suspected that I might hear from you on this topic. When one is on the other side of the globe, it’s easier to look at photos and be a bit dismissive. But somehow, if you’ve actually met the people and walked the streets it hits closer to home. I could write pages on how disgusted I am with Washington’s response to this whole affair, but that still probably wouldn’t do it justice. Our thoughts go out to all the people suffering day after day in this senseless war. ~James
I, too, stand with Ukraine. I am horrified by the actions of the current administration.
I visited in 2006, although I didn’t get to Kyiv. I spent some time in Crimea, where I was informed “here we say spasiba” – no one wanted to speak Ukrainian. The situation was quite different in the Carpathians and Lviv. I loved Lviv, which has one of the best cemeteries anywhere, and always intended to go back…
Kathy, we had Lviv on our radar, but didn’t make it because of time. However, given its location we thought we might be able to access it later from the European side. It sounds lovely, but I’m not sure how it’s fared in the war.
One of the things we liked about Ukraine, and in fact a few of the countries in Eastern Europe, was the East/West feel. When we visited there seemed to be hopes that Ukraine would be admitted to the EU, but alas, it still hasn’t happened. Given it’s history with Russia, I suspect there are still many Ukrainians that side with Russia, but have no ability to emigrate. However, given the merciless pounding they’ve received, opinions may have changed. ~James
Thank you for these lovely posts regarding this brave and proud country! We, too, stand with Ukraine!!
Thanks Anita. When we visited Ukraine wasn’t exactly on the well-trodden tourist path. It really was an intriguing place to visit and something very different for us. However, given the war and destruction, I’m sure the number of tourists to visit will be essentially nil. And unfortunately, it will take decades to recover. ~James
We visited Kyiv about 10 years ago. What a lovely, vibrant city with some of the most beautiful churches we have ever seen. It is certainly not the first time Russia has ravaged Ukraine. The sadness is overwhelming.
Steve
Steve, I totally agree about the glorious, colorful churches. We made the comment in one of our posts about how serious the Ukrainians take their religion, and it seems a bit incongruous that their churches would be so colorful. They’re a very good break from gray granite that’s for sure.
It was interesting that under communist rule they could continue to worship, but had to do it quietly and behind closed doors. I’m sure they aren’t anxious to go back to that. ~James
Wonderful insights and indeed what a privilege you had to experience real life in a country I’ve only read about. Thanks for sharing your colourful and enlightening stories and yes, we too stand with Ukraine. 🙏
Miriam, we enjoyed our time in Ukraine, and given the people we met and having walked their streets, the misery and destruction hits closer to home for us.
It will be a long time before Ukraine is a tourist attraction again, but for a different view of Europe I’d recommend just about any of the post-communist countries in Eastern Europe. ~James
We stand with Ukraine, as well, James and Terri. I don’t think I ever ate Chicken Kyiv at Ho Jos, Terri, but I certainly remember my first experience with the restaurant. We didn’t have them out west and my first wife and I were driving back to jobs in Philadelphia immediately after the Peace Corps in 1967 and Ho Jos had prime locations on all of the service islands on the eastern toll-roads. I’m not sure there were any other choices for lunch. Grin.
Glad to hear it, Curt!
And what a great Ho Jo’s story, Curt. I remember those restaurants in the service islands – you’re right, they seemed to have a total monopoly. Our annual family summer vacation was a trek from Ohio to Wisconsin to visit my grandparents. That route had the service restaurants arching over the interstate and we kids were thrilled. We took great delight in eating our meal while watching the cars zoom past under our feet. ~Terri
To us, Terri, it represented the Denny’s of the West, back when Denny’s was a big deal.
It must feel like dream when looking back on that Ukraine travel trip.
We visited Ukraine a few years ago, long before the war broke out. We spent most of our time in Kiev, and because it’s the center of so much destruction, it certainly hits home with us. ~James
Any landscape or other display of enhanced sensory enhancement to make the Ukrainians forget their war pain makes good sense as suggested in this blog. I wonder if Kiev is different than the rest of the country culturally speaking?
James, when we visited Ukraine we pretty much focused on Kiev. However, we’ve traveled extensively in Eastern Europe and seen first hand how proximity to Russia and the post-Communist attitudes and values permeate through the cultures – no judgement, just an observation. However, I can imagine that the daily onslaught of misery and effects of war would weigh on anyone’s psyche, all politics aside. As everyone knows, nobody wins a war and this battle will be the same. ~James
I appreciate you giving some firsthand information about the war beyond what I read in the world news.