My first encounter with Ukrainian cuisine was at a Howard Johnson’s restaurant in Chicago – of all places! I was a junior in high school, my family had just moved to the “Windy City,” and I’d started my after-school job as a waitress at HoJo’s.
One of the employment perks was permission to try any dish on the menu. Although my Mom was a great cook, my palate was a tad limited. So I decided to sample unfamiliar foods. That’s when I discovered Chicken Kyiv (or Kiev as it was spelled then). Now, I know that HoJo’s is no paragon of authentic, international cuisine, but the breaded, cheese-oozing delicacy I had that day was delicious … and the memory stuck with me! I knew that someday I had to see this place called “Kyiv.”
* * * * *
Fast forward to when we were planning our fall travel and looking for new Eastern European destinations. The first words out of my mouth were “Chicken Kyiv.”
James, totally confused, looked at me with raised eyebrows. As I explained my teenage fascination, he grinned, nodded, and said, “So be it! Kyiv it is!”
And that’s how many of our journeys get launched – on a whim – a seed planted long ago.
We hear that Ukrainian food is delicious. Our friends have assured us that we need to try:
Borshch (Borscht) – a traditional Ukrainian soup made from red beets and up to 20 other ingredients. Folklore says that no Ukrainian girl will be able to get married, if she doesn’t know how to prepare borshch.
Varenyky – crescent-shaped stuffed dumplings that can be savory or sweet. They’re often filled with mashed potatoes, mushrooms, meat, cabbage, or onions. However, we have been assured that it’s the Cherry Varenyky we want – the luscious treat filled with cherries and served as desert. What’s not to like?
Does anyone out there have any more suggestions for Ukrainian food we should try?
Cheers!
Terri
P.S. Evidently, Varenyky is so popular that the folks in Cherksay, Ukraine have erected a giant monument to this tasty dish! I guess that would be “Roadside Ukrainiana.”
Last updated September 5, 2018
Photo Credits: Featured. Cook the Story 1. Jason Lam 2. Liz West 3. Olga Gorchichko 4. Вальдимар
GALLIVANCE 
When I was there in 2006 red caviar was cheap and delicious, don’t know whether it’s still cheap. I particularly loved breakfast blinis and missed them when I changed countries. Also, borscht isn’t necessarily red, at least in the Crimea. Where else are you going in Ukraine?
We’ll have to check out the caviar Kathy – I haven’t had the red stuff in forever! And I can’t wait to sample some blinis. I was just reading about all the different variations on borscht. Rght now Kyiv and Lviv are on our list. We hope to do Crimea on another trip. ~Terri
I loved Lviv! Especially the Lychakivsky Cemetery. I ate well at the charming Cafe Amadeus, but I’m sure the dining scene has changed a lot in seven years. Are you taking the train on to Krakow? If so, I hope buying a ticket has speeded up a bit
I’ve only just made the connection between the Ukraine and Chicken Kyiv for some reason. That old favourite? I must question the cultural origins of my food more often.
B, you sound like me! So glad I’m not the only one. Sometimes I just toodle along blissfully unaware of food origins, and then BAM! – I make the conection. ~Terri
I’d be tasting anything that looks interesting (or I’d never tried before).
I couldn’t bear to go to a new country and not try their local delicacies.
I’m with you Vicki, but I must admit that I draw the line at bugs. Yuck! How is your recovery coming? ~Terri
Just like pierogi! Ooh, the cherry version 🙂
I thought they looked like pierogi, Jo. Glad you confirmed that. And everyone seems to swoon over the cherry ones. 🙂 ~Terri
That all looks delicious! I’m a big chicken Kiev/Kyiv fan too. Do they actually serve it in Kiev?
Thanks Jessica! We’ve been reading about some very fun restaurants that supposedly have it on the menu, so we’ll launch the quest and let you know. ~Terri
I’m anxious to hear what adventures you create in the Ukraine since we are contemplating going there. Safe travels!
Tricia, we arrived in Kyiv a few hours ago and so far we’re both impressed. Riding in from the airport we first saw the golden domes of St. Michael’s and the enormous Motherland statue. There were also old soviet apartment blocks and fascinating architecture – all the things we were hoping to see. The city is hilly and bigger than we expected. I understand it can be pretty chilly in the winter. 🙂 ~Terri
Sounds wonderful! You’ll be in warmer climes once winter hits, won’t you? 🙂
Oh Tricia, you know us so well! We’re considering exploring the Yucatan Peninsula – an area we’ve never done. What do you and Shawn have up your travel sleeves? ~Terri
Terri, still undetermined. We’re hoping for somewhere where we can escape the winter. Perhaps we’ll follow in your footsteps. 🙂
ooh… I love Chicken Kiev. Didn’t know it was Ukrainian. In India, all these dishes were served in “continental” restaurants 🙂
Well, when I tasted it at Howard Johnson’s I definitely didn’t know it was Ukrainian either. I just love it when I’m able to connect the dots! 🙂 ~Terri
Now I’m craving chicken Kiev! Love that your inspiration for visiting the Ukraine was HoJos! I guess you never know where life may lead you…
Thanks ajb! Who would have ever guessed you could be inspired at a Chicago HoJos. And talk about inspiration – I’m totally loving your blog. ~Terri
Back at ya! I’m creating a wish list of travel destinations as I read through your blog. I’m hooked!
I think the savory Varenyky has my vote. I always love dumplings of any sort! And I love the one with the fork in it! 🙂
Cathy, I love the savory ones too. My friend makes a version with caramelized onions that’s to die for! Isn’t the one with the fork a hoot? Since we’ve been doing “Roadside Americana” I knew we had to include this one. 🙂 ~Terri
I love your Roadside Americana series too, Terri! The version with the caramelized onions sounds delicious! 🙂
wow I wish I can bite into this right now…
It does look delicious. Now if I can just find it in Kyiv! 🙂 ~Terri
funny 😉
Love it, love it, thank you for the inspiration. I cooked Borsch once, apparently the eastern part of Europe, Russia and ex-Russian countries, they all have their own version of Borsch…Greetings. Susana.
You’re welcome Susana! I’ve never fixed borsch, so I hope to sample several varieties and gather some recipes. Do you have a favorite recipe? ~Terri
Well, that depends on the cuisine itself, I really cannot say favorite…complicated my way of thinking. I see you travel a lot!
I will tell you more: every Ukrainian woman has a different recipe of borsch! It’s like creating a masterpiece in your kitchen: every little ingredient matters!
That looks so good…
I know Ron – I’m totally craving it. Today we start the quest to find some! ~Terri
Borsch in Ukraine is everything it’s not in the U.S. I spent years thinking it had to be served cold and purple, but there it can be red or green, and I only saw it served hot!
Jennie, I’m so glad to know that! Kathy (above) mentioned that it’s a green version in the Crimea. And you’ll be so glad to know that we flew over with a group of young, bright-eyed Peace Corps volunteers … and I thought of you. They were so excited and I was so proud and happy for them. So I told them war stories of working in the Sudan at their age and we had a great conversation. ~Terri
Oh, that’s a great group to travel with! I hope you have a fabulous time eating your way through the old country. 🙂
Green borsch is popular not only in Crimea. But my observations show that red borsch still has more fans. Not all Ukrainians like green borsch or salo (cured fatback), on the other hand , red borsch has much more fans.
Chicken Kiev! That was one of the first recipes I ever made growing up and was a staple in our school cafeteria– you had to cut it just so to prevent the juices from squirting (something the elementary aged boys loved to do). So sad it has become untrendy, you’ve inspired me to dig out that old recipe. Can’t wait to read your report and learn how the “real” version is! Wonderful post, I googled hojo’s in hopes of finding a restaurant still open (I have fond memories of the fried clams) but it looks like there are only two left in the entire country!
Kiki, I love the school cafeteria story – oh those boys! I don’t remember having it in our cafeteria – we were always having things like “Jean Marzetti” – whatever that was! I had no idea there were only 2 Hojos left in the country! Wow! And I too imprinted on the Hojos clams and still love them to this day! We’ll be keeping our eyes open for cool souvenir ideas for you. ~Terri
Can hardly wait to hear more about this adventure. 🙂
LuAnn, you’ll be glad to know that we tracked down some Chicken Kyiv and it was delicious! More on that later. I hope that you and Terry are doing well. We miss you and look forward to an update. All the best, Terri
I believe I will be posting again soon.
Looking forward to it! ~T
My first experience with HoJo’s was traveling east to teach in Philadelphia after I got out of the Peace Corps. In those days, Denny’s dominated the West and HoJo’s the East. HoJo’s meant my destination was close. BTW, love the plastic fork. It is sculpture worthy of Burning Man. (grin) –Curt
What a great Hojos memory Curt. Kiki (above) tells me there are only 2 left in the country! Hojos was my first real job (other than babysitting and lawn mowing … and snow shoveling 🙂 ). I remember the distinctive turquiose and white houndstooth-checked uniform I had to wear, and Rosie, the take-no-prisoners former preacher cook. It was an eye-opening adventure for a 15 year old. But then there’s the Peace Corps. I wanted to tell you that we flew over with a group of young Peace Corps volunteers stationed in Ukraine. They were so excited. ~Terri
Peace Corps Volunteers in the Ukraine speaks just to how much the world has changed. But, for the most part, the Peace Corps experience is still similar: lot’s of idealism with a touch of pragmatism. I am hoping to finish the book on my own Peace Corps experience this fall. The take-no-prisoners preacher/cook sounds like an interesting character. (grin) –Curt
Ha! “Roadside Ukrainiana” made me laugh out loud! I’m very curious to know how the varynyky differ from pierogi. They sure look similar. And although I’d heard the term chicken kiev, I never knew what the dish actually consisted of… wonder if I could make a veggie version with breaded eggplant. …Or is that Ukrainian blasphemy?
Miranda, I think you were the only person who got it! For my money, varenyky are very similar to pierogi – since we’re also going to Poland, I’ll be able to answer that. Do they make pierogi with cherries because those were great! And an eggplant version of Chicken Kyiv sounds delish. So how’s the new house? ~Terri
Those food pictures are to die for! Geez, now I’m hungry 🙂
Hi Amanda! We were really looking forward to the food in Kyiv … and it didn’t disappoint! I had my first Varenyky and some delicious Chicken Kyiv, so now I can say I had the real thing.:) So glad you stopped by. ~Terri
Can’t believe i never made the connection with Chicken Kyiv! Another post I’m glad I saw before visiting next month :).
Hi Hayley, Isn’t it fascinating where travel ideas originate! 🙂 What inspired your upcoming trip? ~Terri
Hi Terri, I was planning an adventure to Poland anyway and realised I could wangle a side trip to see Chernobyl, something I’ve been fascinated with for a long time. It’s only three weeks away now so I really should learn some basic Russian!
We had wonderful food in Kyiv Hayley. There’s a popular buffet in town (don’t remember the name – just ask around) that serves only local dishes. It’s perfect because the prices are reasonable and it gives you the chance to sample lots of different dishes. We went there 3 separate times and had something different on each visit. Oh, and the beer is very tasty as well. It makes me hungry just typing this message. Enjoy! ~James
I am so hungry for Varenyky right now! My family is German but before immigrating to Canada they lived in what is now Ukraine. I was raised on borscht. You will love the food.
Darlene, I didn’t grow up eating German food, but as an adult, I’ve developed quite a taste for it. Eastern European paprika-spiced, cabbage and sausage stews are delightful, and they’re the perfect cool weather dish. My rationalization is that the unhealthy sausage is offset by the healthy cabbage. We’ve had these hearty stews under many names all over Eastern Europe, and have never disappointed. We developed quite an addiction to wonderful Spanish smoked paprika (the real smoky stuff), and luckily, we found a source for authentic spice here in the the US. It’s one of our regulars. ~James