As a tourist destination, Malta is the complete package. Sunny weather, sandy beaches, blue-lagoon coves, medieval cities, Baroque architecture, and its deep, rich history deliver delightful diversions for everyone. But for those with a taste for Pre-History the fascinating National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta is yet another attraction, and is the perfect starting point for exploring the Neolithic temple cultures of Malta.
On most maps of the Mediterranean Malta is barely visible. But these small, isolated islands punch well above their weight when it comes to history. The islands’ strategic location has led to a veritable Who’s Who of invaders and colonizers; seafaring Phoenicians, land-hungry Romans, crusading Knights, and the modern British set up camp here, sometimes for hundreds of years.
But millennia before any of these interlopers arrived, Neolithic hunter-gatherers established small farming and fishing communities on the islands. The stony remnants of their settlements and temples are scattered around the Maltese archipelago, but for a one-stop look at the artifacts, sculptures, and art from these mysterious cultures the National Museum is a must-see.
The Mediterranean’s mild climate, and abundant plant and animal life made the region an appealing home for early humans, and there are many locations to see and learn of their history. But the ruins in Malta aren’t just another group of pre-historic archaeological sites. The first people in Malta arrived 8,000 years ago, and the Tarxien Temple Complex near modern Valletta is one the oldest and largest free-standing temples in the world.
To further put the importance of Malta’s Neolithic cultures into perspective; 1,000 years before the Great Pyramids in Egypt, 1,500 years before Stonehenge, and 2,000 years before the Acropolis of Athens the Ġgantija Temple on nearby Gozo was holding its mysterious ceremonies. Unfortunately, there are no written records providing details of these cultures, which leaves nothing but archaeological guesswork. But, it certainly wouldn’t seem a stretch of the phrase to call Malta one of the cradles of civilization, and the exhibits at the National Museum prove the point.
One of the museum’s highlights is a series of plump sculptures. The grande dame of these figures is the beautiful clay “Sleeping Lady.” It takes some archaeological insight to fully appreciate this delicate six-inch sculpture, but her pleated skirt, the meticulous detail of the sagging bed, and her placement in a burial chamber may mean she represents eternal sleep – a sophisticated artistic message for 4,000 BCE.
In addition to the Sleeping Lady there were a couple of other sculptures of “well-fed” Maltesers (couldn’t pass up the chance for a British candy pun) that were 3-4 feet tall. The popular interpretation for these asexual figures is that they may represent some sort of fertility cult. On an isolated island where the fertility of crops, domesticated animals, and members of the tribe was essential to survival, rites to address fecundity seem a natural gesture. Interestingly, the chubby torsos were designed to have interchangeable heads – possibly a nod to the concept that even 4,000 years ago, people could be fickle.
In addition to sculptures, there were some amazingly modern-looking low relief carvings of geometric shapes as well as stylized vines. The curators made a stab at interpretation of the meaning of these swirls, but honestly, no one really has any idea beyond educated guesses.
The old photos of the block carvings in situ are a reminder of why the artifacts were moved inside for preservation.
Weathered walls and jumbles of carved stonework are always interesting to wander, but a real understanding and appreciation for ancient ruins takes historic and scientific details which are a museum’s raison d’etre. If our ancient history is your cup of tea, don’t miss the National Museum of Archaeology in Valletta.
Happy Trails
James & Terri
P.S. And in Athens, the Greek National Archaeological Museum has a unique twist on its sculptures. If you’re curious, check it out!
Photo Credits: 1. Jean Vella 3. Houng Ngui 4. Fergus So 5. Frank Vincentz 6. Claudia Sciberras 8, 9,10. Georg Karl Ell
GALLIVANCE 
What an absolutely fascinating place Malta sounds, full of ancient, even cradle history as you said. It’s never been on my radar but really does look and sound amazing. Thanks for enlightening me. Oh, and I chuckled at your mention of the well fed Maltesers!
Miriam, Malta is a fascinating place for sure. We spent a month there years ago, and a week recently. Of course, the increase in tourists has changed things (But where on earth is that not the case?), but the island and all its charms lives on. It has a classic “Mediterranean ” vibe and the island’s small size makes everything easily accessible. With a good plan to avoid the crowds, I’m sure you’d enjoy it.
As for Maltesers: when I was writing I was looking for the correct collective noun for residents of Malta. The first word that came to mind was “Maltese” and then … Maltesers! And a pun was born. ~James
Darn! Still having issues with rejected comments. Thought WP had resolved it. Interesting article. I’ll get to Malta one day.
Thanks for persevering and making a comment Jo. We haven’t heard of any issues with comments from other folks, so not sure what’s going on. I do know, in our experience WP gets quirky at certain times and does weird things for no definable reason. If you can provide a few more details we’ll have a look on our end for problems. We always look forward to your comments, so we’d like to get it sorted. Thanks. ~James
It’s been across the board that a comment disappears into the ether, and ‘unable to post your comment’ error message appears. Many have reported it to WP and I thought it was fixed but it still surprises you sometimes. I had got into the habit of copying each message before pressing send, because if you reposted it, often it would go through. Comments directly into the Reader are not affected. Go figure!
Thanks for the feedback Jo. I run into this same thing sometimes when making comments on other blogs. I’d have to log in, and then sometimes as you experienced, I would get a “unable to posts” prompt. This sounds like a WP quirk. And your copying each message is a good idea that I sometimes forget. But I must say that after losing a comment, my second attempt is much shorter – probably edits that I needed to make anyway. 🙂 ~James
Same here xx
Great post on Malta’s early history and its place in the age of antiquities. We were similarly wowed by the tiny plump figures and other artifacts in Valletta’s excellent Archaeology Museum.
Annie, I really loved that museum. When we visited it was very quiet and we were able to wander at our own pace. The collection wasn’t so huge that it was a major time commitment, but at the same time, the information was complete and very well signed. It’s one of those collections that probably doesn’t get the attention it deserves. ~James
I agree wholeheartedly, James. And, even though many cruises stop in Valletta, I don’t think Malta gets the recognition it rightfully deserves in the annals of history.
Oh the temptation. We’ve been trying to organise a family trip to Malta for more than six years. One day.
Peggy, with the variety of activities available on Malta, it would be a wonderful place for a family vacay. I hope you eventually make it happen. ~James
I too enjoyed the Museum of Archaeology in Valletta and it played a big part in Amanda in Malta: The Sleeping Lady. The building itself is impressive and the displays amazing. I spent an entire morning there one rainy day. Malta is one of the most unique places I’ve visited. Your photos brought back great memories.
Darlene, I’m glad that the post reminded you of a pleasant time in Malta. I agree that it’s a very unique place, and the variety of things to see and do are exceptional. We’re big believers in public transport (rather than car rental), and the island transport is effective, cheap, and gets you just about anywhere you want to go. It’s unfortunate that mass tourism has gotten to be a negative, but as I’ve said elsewhere, this is a fact of life these days.
And someone stealing The Sleeping Lady? I’m so glad that Amanda is on the case. I’m so curious about the case and the history you’ve written, I’m buying the ebook. 🙂 ~James
We took public transport as well and enjoyed it. At one point the bus was full and as we drove past some poor travellers waiting at the stop, we all waved at them. I hope there was another bus coming soon behind us. I am so pleased you are checking out Amanda’s adventures in Malta. You will recognize some places. I do a lot of research, but keep in mind it’s fiction and I do make some things up! I had a lot of fun writing this book.
I enjoy history and am fine getting it in entertaining doses. Given Malta’s rich history I’ll be interested to see how you worked it in.
Thanks so much for this post on Malta! Malta is still on my bucket list, and I hope I can get there some day! My grandmother was from Valletta. I always love your informative posts from your travels!
Thanks Anita. That’s so cool that your grandmother was from Valletta. I hope you heard lots of interesting stories about her life and growing up there. When we lived in Sudan one of Terri’s friends was from Malta, and she was a hoot. She spoke fluent Arabic and was a big help with tips on dealing with everyday life in Khartoum.
Valletta is an easy plane flight from lots of places in Europe, and given how different it is from both Europe and North Africa, it’s worth the trip. I hope you can make it. ~James
Thanks so much, James! I wish I could have heard stories from my grandmother, but I only saw her 3 times before she passed away in the early 1970s. She lived in England (the widow of a British soldier who died in WWII), and I lived in the US. Oddly, though very young and miles apart, I always felt very close to her. My mother was born in Malta, but grew up in England. I enjoyed your comments about Terri’s friend from Malta, because, from what I have been able to experience with other Maltese people, they truly are a hoot! Ha! Great sense of humor! Thanks again for the info regarding Malta and traveling there! Wishing you and Terri well in your ongoing journeys! ~Anita
Loved reading more of the history, James. We really adored Malta, especially all that gorgeous stone (and sun upon it)!
Lexie, Malta certainly has a lot going for it. And I agree with you on the stonework. I’ve always been partial to rough-carved Mediterranean stone, no matter where it is. And the local limestone on Malta is a particularly nice color. ~James
Malta is such a beautiful country with so much to offer! We didn’t make it to the archaeology museum, but wish we had now!
Hannah, sorry for my tardy reply. For some reason your comment was banished to the spam folder. With its variety and history I wholeheartedly recommend Malta as a travel destination. We’ve been there a couple of times and have never been disappointed. The cruise ship crowds are a pain, but that’s standard fare in the Med these days. Hope all is going will for you in the UK. ~James
Oh I really love this story. I had never heard about the Tarxien Temple Complex, the Sleeping Lady, and the plump figures with interchangeable heads. I have always been fascinated by Malta, but these vestiges from the Neolithic period only add more reasons to visit this country.
Bama, as I said in the post, Malta has something for everyone. I suspect that lots of visitors just pass this museum by, and that’s unfortunate. I’ve always had an interest in early humans, and I find the mysteries of making the transition from hunter-gatherers to farmers truly intriguing.
One difference in Malta’s early civilizations is that they had to deal with very limited resources because of the small size of the island. Unlike say Indonesia. You know, I should know this but I don’t. What is the oldest ancient human settlement within the Indonesian archipelago? I’m sure you’ve probably been there. ~James
A few years ago, some cave paintings found on the island of Sulawesi in eastern Indonesia were confirmed to be at least 51,200 years old, making them “the oldest known depiction of storytelling and the earliest instance in figurative art in human history.” I remember reading how these findings challenged the long-held notion that art developed from the west to the east, along the flow of migration of early humans. And yes, I have been to the area, but I only saw one hand stencil and I was not even sure how old it was. Getting to the really old ones would require a guide, I guess, as they’re not that easy to reach.
Looking at this post, James and Terry, plus many others from blogging friends over the years, I’m beginning to think that Malta would be a great place to spend a month this fall. We just returned from a month on Hawaii’s Big Island and discovered that we loved the month approach. Thanks for inspiring us. When do you think the best time to go is? We are off to the Southwest for the next four months to once again explore so many of the places we love. Curt
Curt, your idea of a fall trip is the best idea. We were there last year for a week in Mid-Sept and the weather was cool overnight and nice and warm during the day. Also, our hotel was virtually empty for a few days, so they gave us a primo room on the top floor with a huge balcony. It was excellent. Some years ago we spent a month there in May-June and as you might expect, it was very hot. Also, you might want to check out our post on traveling with crowds. Malta is a very attractive stop for huge cruise ships, so plan accordingly. Having said that, it’s a unique place and for a student of history like you, it will be a dandy place for you and Peggy to spend a month. ~James
Such an interesting place, I need to investigate ancient Maltese history deeper. The Knights are cool and all, but ancient Malta is so mysterious.
Thanks for the comment Justin and for dropping by the blog. For much of recorded history Malta has been a cultural crossroads, and the various influences are evident on the island today. However, the island was attached to the mainland up until the end of the last ice age when a rise in sea level cut it off. Consequently, the ancient cultures that we see there today pretty much developed in isolation. Very interesting indeed. ~James
Maltese sounds pretty amazing = enjoyed this post
Yvette, like many places, Malta suffers over-tourism. However, even with the crowds, it’s a fascinating place with a deep, rich history that spans millennia. It’s a bit out of the way, but well worth the effort. ~James
Hi – is Terri still with us? Just asking because I have not been at your blog very much
Yes very much with us and doing great! Each of us is adjusting to the normal aging issues (creaky bones and slowing down a bit), but we’re committed to living an active life and continuing to travel. Just finished a month in Turkey and Benelux and working on a blog post that should be published soon. Hopefully that will get us back on track. Thanks again for checking in. ~James
James, please send Terri a hello from me – 💚
and I sent the Arc and see if she wants to skim it too – but I think you will really enjoy chapters 8 and 9, with Kelvin’s cycling themes.
Have a great week
take care