For Europe-bound travelers trying to avoid hordes of high-season tourists, autumn shoulder season is the perfect time to visit.
But, one of the downsides is unpredictable weather. Our day trip to Jūrmala, Latvia was a shivery reminder of how capricious weather can turn a cold shoulder.
Nestled on the white-sand shores of the Baltic Sea, the historic resort town of Jūrmala is a short, 30-minute train ride outside Latvia’s capital city of Riga. We read about the town’s famous collection of turn-of-the-century wooden mansions from its glory days, and how it’s once again become fashionable as a playground for Russian politicians, celebrities, oil tycoons, and mobsters … a combination we couldn’t resist.
In addition to the nouveau riche, when Latvia was a part of the Soviet Union it was a destination for Communist Party bigwigs like Leonid Brezhnev as well as Nikita Khrushchev, and today even America’s newfound friend Vladimir Putin visits! It’s only a two hour flight from Moscow, so where better to escape the political pressure cooker and blow off some steam.
Given what we’d read, we had a mental image of Jūrmala before arrival, but the reality was different. Yes, there were upscale, well-guarded homes, but there were also large, run-down houses right down the street. This faded glory was unexpected.
We were particularly surprised by this hotel ruin, perched on what would normally be a prime location overlooking the beach. Apparently the owner’s son died after a fall down an elevator shaft, and afterwards, the place fell into ruin. Deaths from this type of fall are … ahem … common, and it probably had nothing to do with the Russian mob … probably. All sorts of conspiracies come to mind. Today, the derelict building is a palate for graffiti artists and an impromptu party venue for local teenagers.
But in marked contrast, a half block away, meticulously maintained gingerbread mansions sit on Jūrmala’s equivalent of Park Avenue.
And then there was the resort-quality beach. It was a windy, 40-degree day, and not the best day for a swim.
As day trips go, Jūrmala was remarkable. It was a surprising contrast to Riga, and even though we missed the glitterati of summer, we loved the feel of its halcyon glamor.
Happy Trails,
James & Terri
Photo Credits: 1. Bryan Ledgard
GALLIVANCE 
We really enjoyed our few days in Riga and our visit yo Jurmala
Thanks for the comment Marion and for dropping by the blog. Like you, we enjoyed Riga but it’s always nice to get out into the countryside for a look around. And Jurmala was a nice change of pace from Riga and a very easy train ride. ~James
Fascinating!
Fascinating is the word Cindy. That such a quiet, little place could be so notorious is amazing. ~James
To my shame, I had to Google where Latvia is. I had a vague sense that it was further South. Thankfully, I don’t teach Geography!
Don’t feel so badly about not knowing much about Latvia. I’m sure you aren’t alone. It was never a major player on the world stage, and the Russian communists made sure that it didn’t get to be. ~James
An interesting read – we plan to visit the Baltic States next year. The history sounds fascinating.
Lars and Michelle, the Baltic area is an easy place to visit because it’s so compact, so you’ll enjoy your time there. One of our favorites spots was Riga, because of its fabulous collection of Art Nouveau architecture. It’s some of the best we’ve seen. For a sample, check this out:
https://gallivance.net/2015/01/12/a-face-off-on-the-facade-rigas-art-nouveau-masterpiece/
~James
how beautiful and imagine their stories
Beth, Jurmala is one of those sleepy, little places you expect Jason Bourne to be sneaking around looking for bad guys. I’m sure the summertime beach feel is totally different, but on the day we visited, it was quiet and mysterious. ~James
Dead men might not tell any tales, but I’ll bet those buildings could. It always fascinates me when I see a ruin next to manicured home. Apparently modesty isn’t one of their ingrained traits, but I’m with you, no swimming below 80 degrees.
Laura, as a photographer, you’ll find this interesting. Have a look at the photo of the deserted, flesh-colored house with the huge metal-looking compass rose leaned against the house on the bottom right. What could that be and how on earth did it get there? Talk about a mystery. ~James
I noticed that. I wonder if perhaps it was some sort of sundial in a garden. It does look out of place leaned against the house.
Love the house tour — both the glamorous and the well, not so much. The skinny dip puts that weather in context. I, too, would have been clothed to the max, avoiding any chilly encounters of the sea. Lovely post.
Good Monday morning Rusha! When I see these guys doing their “Polar Bear Plunge” I’m not sure whether to admire them for their bravery or pity them for their insanity. But either way, you won’t see this southern boy jumping in for an endurance test. Nope – not happenin’. 🙂 ~James
Another very interesting post. The gingerbread on those buildings was fascinating.
We have always enjoyed traveling in the shoulder seasons – just to avoid the crowds. I recall grilling some sausages on a chilly beach once, and soon the smell of the cooking attracted several people from “nowhere.”
Ray, we travel some in summer and occasionally winter, but most of our travel is in the off-season. Luckily, we have the luxury of traveling when we want, and it just makes no sense to subject ourselves to massive crowds if we don’t have to.
We lived at St. Augustine Beach, FL for a few years, so I can relate to the beachside hibernation that happens in cool weather. There are always people around, but you just don’t see them. If you live at the beach and put up with tourist crowds, it’s actually a really neat time. ~James
I love the architecture there. They seem to use a lot of wood. BTW the nude dude had a lot of extra flesh to keep himself warm…. chuckle
Leslie
Leslie, we still laugh about this photo. Terri gets full marks for getting a photo of a totally naked man without getting the niggly bits, which would change our normally PG rating to X. 🙂 ~James
chuckle…. 😉
Cleaning glasses for a better view in the naked guy photo? 🙂
“Oh yeah, he fell down an elevator shaft.” A common Russian ailment, getting shafted. –Curt
Good to hear from you Curt, and you da’ man with that great pun. It’s so good I could’ve really used it in the post. ~James
🙂
I didn’t make it out of Riga. Next time!
Kathy, there’s lots to see in Riga, but we spent a week there so we had time to get out of town. For a quiet beach town Jurmala certainly has an interesting history. ~James
A great report on your visit to this lesser known place. I have come to enjoy visiting places not everyone goes to. I’m sure the nude guy had some shrinkage. Brrr! A great picture though with the fully clothed man in front. Almost looked staged. LOL!
LOL. Shrinkage … don’t I know it Darlene. As I said to someone else, Terri gets full marks for getting a photo of a totally naked man without getting the niggly bits, which would change our normally PG rating to X. 🙂 ~James
How’s Latvia for the English Only traveler?
We have serviceable French too but primarily American English.
Like much of Eastern Europe, the second language in Latvia is Russian, not English or French. So basically, don’t count on English. However, if you’re looking for an English speaker your best chance of finding one is a youngish person – from teens to 20-30 somethings. They’ve all grown up with the internet and many speak enough English to answer your questions. In fact, some go out of their way to strike up conversations just to practice, which can be fun. We get around the lack of English by making as many arrangements in advance as possible; like hotel, train, or bus reservations and tickets. But, don’t worry, you’ll do fine. ~James
Thanks for the info, helpful to know ahead of time
Would love to visit Latvia someday. It would be a fascinating place! I have to say my favorite shot is the naked guy changing! I can’t believe it! Must have really made you laugh. 🙂
Nicole, I think you’d enjoy a visit to this area. When we visited, we flew into Helsinki, took the ferry across to Estonia, and traveled overland to Latvia, and Lithuania. It was one of those “empty holes” on our travel map. Like much of Eastern Europe, it was interesting to see the post-Communist influence.
And the nude dude was a hoot. Here I was freezin’ but butt off, and he was showing his off. 🙂 ~James
I would love to see this part of the world. Thanks!
In just a few sentences, you’ve thoroughly piqued my interest in visiting this place! I need a return to the Baltic countries to fill in what I missed and Latvia is high on that list.
Lexie, as a big believer in concise writting I’m happy to hear that I’ve convinced anyone of anything in just a few sentences. 🙂
Our trip to the Baltics was exactly as you say: to fill in a hole in our travel map. We enjoyed our trip and because it’s geographically small, it’s an easy area to see. Riga and its Art Nouveau architecture was fabulous, and we also really enjoyed Tallinn’s oldtown. The Russian communists ruled with an iron fist here, so if you’re interested in that history at all there are a few sights that were important. ~James
I really loved Tallinn and Estonia! But we need to go back for some other ex-Soviet, Baltic countries!
Yurmala – a beautiful city.
Thanks for the comment and for dropping by the blog. I agree, Jurmala is a beautiful and interesting seaside city. We enjoyed out time there. ~James
Now I have to say that is quite the contrast between the swimmer and your portrait James! Apparently they grow them tough or possibly numb in Latvia. I will take the cold weather over crowds any day. However our Canadian winter training comes in handy for such things.
Sue, as veterans of the Polar Bear Plunge, I suspect that you and Dave would have been right at home on the Jurmala beach. In addition to a nice, chilly dip you could have compared notes with the nude dude on Canadian and Latvian winters … after he put his pants on of course. 🙂 ~James
James you make me
laugh out loud. Yes there is snow on our front lawn as I type so our training is beginning rather early this year.
Snow in Sept!? You guys are winter warriors.
Or winter whiners. One or the other.
omg – this place is magnificent!! The derelict buildings break my heart though… to see such beauty being neglected.
I LOVE that big spiky thing in the photo of the first rundown mansion. oooo – I want! It looks as big as my house but who cares 😉
Joanne I’ve wondered about that thing from the beginning. It looks like a massive, metal compass rose, and it’s just as big as it appears. I wonder if, at one time, it was attached to a building of some sort, which begs the question where was it and how did it come to be in Jurmala? Anyway, this little beach town was very unusual and interesting and made a great day trip. ~ James
You manage to find these great unusual places in your travels. This was definitely one of them!