Our love of old houses had its start in New Orleans.
With the ink still drying on our university diplomas, we couldn’t believe our luck at finding our first jobs in The Big Easy.
We lived Uptown in one of NOLA’s historic “shotguns” just off Magazine Street, and if it wasn’t heaven, it was close to it. Our time there gave us a life-long appreciation for historic houses, and no matter where we travel, they draw us like magnets. Which is precisely what pulled us up the steep cobblestone streets to the Stari Gradia hill in Plovdiv.
Widely recognized as one of the finest collections of Bulgarian Revival Architecture in the country, this historic neighborhood is a living museum and UNESCO World Heritage Architectural Site – and for good reason.
We appreciated the historical significance of these mid-19th Century houses, but they appealed to us even more because they were colorful, ornately decorated, and well designed. We found ourselves saying over and over: “We could definitely live in that house.”
It’s impressive that a 175 year-old design still works so well today. We loved the clever “upside-down wedding cake” houses with overhanging upper floors adding extra square footage to a smaller street-level footprint. Windows on all sides flooded the rooms with natural light and took advantage of panoramic views of the valley below.
Walled courtyards provided private outdoor space, and cozy enclosed balconies near street level provided the opportunity for a little neighborly bonding. These unique structures were called clukarniks, which literally and humorously translates as “gossip room.”
Another attractive feature was the extensive use of natural wood. It complemented the exterior stonework and stucco walls, but the real standout woodwork was on the interior.
The intricately carved ceilings in the main rooms were particularly impressive, and in some cases a rainbow of colors was added to brighten things up.
Obviously, these unique designs are architecturally important, but what is this “Revival” business and why does it matter? The answer to this question goes back to 1364 – the year the Ottoman Turks conquered Plovdiv. It’s not necessary to read much Bulgarian history to see that this was a yoke that chafed.
Over the years, Plovdiv merchants traveled the Empire, taking advantage of Ottoman trade routes, and when they returned home, they not only brought exotic goods, but money. The city became an important economic center, and as wealth increased and Ottoman control began to weaken, Bulgarians began to rediscover their national identity and regain autonomy from their unwelcome rulers.
A successful merchant class could choose what they built, and what they wanted was an architectural style that appealed to them. They wanted a return to housing styles that had been used in small villages for decades.
The National Revival movement touched on all aspects of Bulgarian culture including encouraging literacy, education, and instilling a sense of national pride. And these hilltop houses were one tangible result of exercising their newfound independence.
The unique and attractive houses in Plovdiv’s historic area were built at a time when Bulgaria was in transition. In addition to being a pleasant walking tour, this neighborhood is also a good reminder that architecture can make a cultural as well as political statement. And no trip to Plovdiv would be complete without a hike up to see them.
Happy Trails,
James & Terri
GALLIVANCE 
Great colours and fantastic architecture.
Thanks Peggy. They’ve done a wonderful job of restoring this area, and it’s just another jewel in the crown of little-known Plovdiv. ~James
Great photos. I hope we can see the real thing sometime.
Thanks Ray and Alie. Plovdiv was even better than we expected, and our week there was wonderful. If you get to the area, make sure to drop by. ~James
Beautiful homes/buildings. I love the upside-down look. I’m with you, I could definitely live in one of those. The woodwork is amazing, especially the ceiling!
Laura, I especially like the three-floor pinkish one on the corner. It’s such a clever design and all the windows must make it feel huge inside. I’ve never really seen a design like it, and I wonder why it is used more in places that have tight on space. ~James
L.o.v.e. the architecture, the color, the attention to every detail no matter how big or small. Dreamy district. 😀
Tess, this is a amazing area to spend some time. There are a few small tour groups wandering about, but it’s traffic-free, there’s something to see around every corner, and a few small cafes for a sit-down. And, as an added bonus, the Roman theatre is on the side of the hill a 100 meters away. ~James
So pretty! Love the attention to detail.
Thanks Pam. The renovators made sure that there were lots of details restored, and it’s a very photogenic place for sure. ~James
This completes my conversion to a total Plovdiv fan. What unique architecture and on top of all the other aspects you’ve outlined – sounds a perfect place to visit.
You’re right about the unique architecture. We’ve seen similarities in some small design aspects, but as a whole, it’s amazingly original. I love the inverted-cake design, and as I said before, I’m surprised that such an ingenious design hasn’t been used more in crowded areas. ~James
Wow! I can see why you would want to come home to one of these fantastic houses. I’d take the blue one with the roller coaster roof. Thanks for the lovely photos and history.
“Roller coaster roof.” That’s a perfect description Marilyn. I wish I’d come up with it myself. That blue house is now a museum and the greatroom behind those windows is larger than our entire townhouse. It had some fabulous woodwork inside as well. ~James
Love this post, the color and everything about the houses makes me want a Gossip Room.
Joyce, most of these houses were large and looked fancy, but the one we visited was very livable. I love all the balconies, bay windows, and of course the gossip rooms. I’ve always been partial to small, cozy, private spaces in a house. It was a real surprise and pleasure to see you and Dascal yesterday. Love, JH
Oops = I detract my last comment – didn’t see the info on the first page – was only directed to the images!
No problem Randi. We’re just glad you stopped by. BTW, it’s no big deal, but I’m curious how you were linked to the post from a photo. These are all original photos, and haven’t been published before. Again, no big deal, we just try and understand how readers find out blog. Thx. ~James
What craftsmanship and so much color. Thanks for the post. Feel like I was there for a moment.
Thanks for the comment and for dropping by the blog. These houses and this lovely historic area were unlike anything else that we saw in Bulgaria. It also helps that it’s a quiet, pleasant place to walk and the small shops and cafes give it a very inviting feel. ~James
My goodness, each one is more beautiful than the next! No boring ticky-tacky boxes in a row here.
We were very impressed at the time, and while putting this post together, we were reminded what an impressive collection of historic houses this is. And there were a number of houses that didn’t make it into the post. ~James
We need to keep a set of personal posts for ourselves, with the photos that we haven’t shared to the public!
It’s so impressive to think of the time that went into all that detail. Would I want the job of re-painting? Noooo. But I love looking at these wonderful pieces of history. Thank you.
Susan, Terri and I have owned a number of historic houses, and learned the hard way that they’re a labor of love. We still love old houses, but honestly, today we’d rather admire someone else’s old house and live day to day in our small, modern, easy to maintain townhouse. ~James
James (and Terri) – Yup. The bungalow (600 sq ft) was our labor of love, and we wouldn’t want to do it again. But it sure gives an appreciation for the effort behind the interesting exterior of older buildings. Maybe that’s one reason your photos are so well-done – you have the eye of appreciation!
I love the detailing around the windows.
Leslie
Leslie, as best I could tell, all of this detail was hand done and not stenciled – an amazing amount of work for someone. ~James
So pretty. And I loved New Orleans as well!
Linda, for a couple of newlywed college kids, New Orleans was one of the most exciting places on earth. Even post-Katrina, there’s no place like it. Our time there instilled in us a love of fun and adventure that we carry with us today. ~James
It is a great place. I was there while Jazz Fest was on, which was amazing!
Linda, if you went to Jazz Fest you saw NOLA do the three things it does best: food, fun, and music.
It sure does that! And I saw Al Green 🙂
The colours are exquisite. It makes me happy just looking at the pictures. Imagine what viewing the actual house would do to me!
Darlene, the blue house with the garden is a museum today, so we were able to tour inside. The woodwork was exquisite, and its state of preservation was amazing. But my favorite is the salmon-colored upside down wedding cake. I can see myself sitting in a window seat (wine glass in hand) gazing out over the valley below. ~James
Wow, these are amazing! Such beautiful colours & interesting architecture. Absolutely gorgeous!
Lynn in addition to the beautiful houses, it’s also a very pleasant neighborhood. It has the buzz and hum of a real neighborhood with old ladies walking their dogs, kids playing, and little cafes serving coffee on outdoor patios. It’s a delightful little pocket of history. ~James
Sounds like my kind of place James!
Plovdiv here we come … and hopefully soon! Your series of posts on this fascinating city have been outstanding and brought to my attention a place I was previously unaware of. These home are artistic and architectural treasures and Bulgaria has every right to be proud of them. This area well deserves its UNESCO world heritage designation. Anita
That’s great news Anita, and I know that you won’t be disappointed. I’m not sure why Plovdiv hasn’t shown up on some “Top Ten” unknown places list, but it hasn’t. But with its Capital of Culture award, it’s only a matter of time, so I’d suggest visiting sooner rather than later. You and Richard will love it. ~James
Really, really stunning! While I admired the painted wood, what I really loved was the natural wood on the ceiling. Do you know if it’s (wormy) chestnut? Looks like it, but I don’t even know if they have chestnut trees!
Thanks Lexie. I’m a big fan of natural wood, and you’d think that I could identify more types, but beyond a few of the basic types, I’m clueless. I do know that they have beau coup chestnut trees in northern Europe, but I don’t remember seeing any in the Balkans. Usually, I just point and say: Isn’t that beautiful wood? 🙂 ~James
Upside down wedding cake houses and gossip rooms. Add all that fabulous color and I am so in! Have you been hired by the Plovdiv tourism board by any chance? 🙂
I’m not on the payroll Sue, but that isn’t a bad idea. I should have run this series of posts by the tourist board before I published them and maybe I could have picked up a few lev. But then, I can hear them saying: Why should be pay when we can get it for free? ~James
You might be surprised James. 🙂
I love the wood shutters, pretty colors and every little detail. Old houses have so much character and charm. Lovely post, thank you😀
Thanks Gilda. This was one of the loveliest collections of historic houses that I’ve seen in a while. And I liked the fact that in addition to being attractive, they were practical – a great combination. ~James
You two always do a great job of capturing the architecture of an area. The houses of Plovdiv are indeed special. I like their upside down look, the colors, and the plants. The inside ceiling was incredible. –Curt
Curt, they don’t make ’em like that anymore. As I said before, I can’t believe that the upside-down plan isn’t more widely used. It isn’t overly complicated engineering, and it adds so much extra floor space – the perfect solution in crowded spaces. ~James
I love these beautiful old houses. Just stunning, and such character inside and out.
Thanks Amy. All the colors, curves, angles and interesting details make these very photogenic houses. Somebody put lots of time and money into their renovation. ~James
This architecture is absolutely stunning!!
I have a mental picture of you giving yourself whiplash trying to capture as much of this beauty as you can. It seems to be everywhere! 🙂
All those little jut-outs add so much architectural interest – I especially like the one jutting out from what I assume is a stonewall fence.
Joanne, one of the things that I love about these houses is that in addition to being colorful and attractive, they’re practical as well. I’ve always been a sucker for cozy, private spaces like that small enclosed balcony. After seeing designs like these, I wonder how we can continue to spend so much money to build drab and boring houses. ~James
I agree with you about the ugly box syndrome that is filling our towns and cities. I live in one
What fantastic buildings. I love all the decoration, especially those ceilings.
I agree Marie, these ceilings are fantastic. And I can’t believe that the colorful geometric one is almost 200 years old. It’s so modern looking. ~James
What a wonderful post! I have never been to Bulgaria so thanks for bringing a bit of it to me. Absolutely loved the architecture! Which building did you like the most?
Thanks Virginia. I thought this might be right up your alley. I liked bits of all the buildings, but if I had to pick just one, it would be the 3-level coral-colored. I love all the windows and the upwardly increasing floor space. ~James
Such charming architecture. No wonder you were in heaven, so to speak, as a photographer/blogger. I like the term “upside down wedding cake” — just so darned accurate for this style! We’ve headed to Romania in July to renovate a school in Bucharest. Here’s hoping we have lots of time to roam around and find some similar, charming abodes.
Great news about the Romania trip Rusha. When we were planning our Balkans trip Romania and Moldova were on the list to consider, but we decided to leave them for the next trip. I’ll be interested to hear how you and Bert like it. It’s an interesting part of the world, and one that I was woefully ignorant of. I’m sure that it will fun (and hard work). How long do you plan on being there? ~James
We’ll be in Bucharest for a week, renovating a school. Prior to that, however, we hope to see Prague and Budapest on our own prior to meeting the Habitat group in Bucharest. Still all up in the air. But I’m getting excited.
You’ll enjoy both Prague and Budapest. Have a great trip! ~James